Lash Mapping – Eyelash Extensions – How to create a perfect set of lashes!

Client’s Eye Shapes

Lash Mapping - Eye Shapes


The things we need to consider as a professional lash technician:

Read more on the above eye shapes here 

  • Health & care of the client’s natural lashes
  • Clients eye shape
  • Length of clients’ natural lashes
  • Managing client’s expectations
  • What eyelash extension thickness client’s natural lashes can take
  • Deciding the best lash curl for your client depending on their eye shape & look, they could have the following; hooded, close-set, downturned, deep-set, or round eyes
  • Choosing the right lash style etc. is so important to each & every client as not one lash look suits everyone!


To create a great set of eyelash extensions we recommend mixing lash curls using a variety of lash lengths & using a specific lash map style to ensure you are creating not only the style your client desires & also to create symmetry as the saying goes…

“Our eyes are sisters, not twins!”

Lashes can vary considerably depending on what side & how the client sleeps, often resulting in twisted or finer lashes on the outer edges.

This is where lash mapping becomes so useful – As It’s a template to use to achieve the perfect lash look!

There are a variety of lash techniques that are very popular & trending right now…

  • Volume Lashes – using either Pre-made Volume Fans, Handmade Russian Fans, YY & W Lashes
  • Pre-made Volume Fans are perfect to use to create volume lashes quicker than making your own handmade Russian fans
  • Pre-made Volume Fans are heat-bonded, super-fine base, easy to apply & come in a variety of curls & lash thicknesses: 3D, 4D, 5D, 6D, 8D, 10D
  • Using a Pre-made fan works out less expensive than using hand-made fans due to the reduction in the treatment time!
  • W & YY Lashes these lashes are perfect for clients with fine, sparse lashes that can only take a light-weight volume lash 
  • Hybrid Lashes – This lash technique is where you would mix classic eyelash extensions & pre-made volume fans or hand-made Russian fans & create your lash map to include both lash styles to achieve a textured, volume lash look! (See Image Below)
  • Classic Eyelash Extensions – This lash technique is where you apply 1 x eyelash extension onto each natural lash – there is a huge variety of eyelash extensions in various styles, lengths, curls & thicknesses


Lash Mapping Stylesheet

Lash mapping is so widely used in the eyelash extension business! 

As lash technicians, we know there are so many lash styles out there than there used to be a few years ago.

Eyelash Extensions come in a huge variety of lengths, thicknesses & curls.

From 7mm length up to 16mm plus! It can be so tricky when you are deciding the perfect lash style to choose for your clients.

The client’s natural lash length will help you decide on the length of lashes to use depending on what lash technique you are using i.e. Classic, Russian, Pre-made Volume Fans, Cashmere flat Lashes, YY or W lashes.

Teaming these lash extensions with our Lash Adhesives/Lash Glues & other lash products will create lash longevity & your clients will love their long-lasting fabulous lashes rebook in with you & hopefully recommend you to their friends & family.

Eye Lash Adhesives/Lash Glues We recommend – Master Lash  – Fast LashExtreme LashFlash Bonders.

Primers, lash bonders & lash removers – Magic PrimerMagic DryLash off – Creme Lash RemoverFoaming Lash & Brow Wash.

Lash Tweezers – Precision IsolationEasy Lash Pick UpDeep Angeled VDeep Curved.

We recommend using an ultra-fine point Sharpie Marker pen as the ink does not run and works really well on all types of under-eye gel pads!

It doesn’t matter how long you have been a lash technician, lash mapping is a great way to offer your client’s a WOW set of lashes!

Lash mapping helps you know exactly what size, curl & thickness you are going to place where, once you have tried this technique you will never go back!


A quick look at some of the most popular Lash Map Styles…

Round Eye/Natural –  This is quite a common lash style & eye shape.

Using longer lashes in the middle of the eye gives the appearance of lash length & opens the eyes more.  Not all clients will want a dramatic set of lashes, they quite often like a natural lash look, resulting in longer fuller natural lashes.

For the inner eye, we recommend starting with lash lengths 7 – 8mm –  graduating on to 9,10,11 – then back to 10-9-8 lash lengths, to follow the natural lash length line.


Cat Fox/Eye –  This is such a popular lash style super glamorous.

We recommend using longer lashes on the outer edge of the eyes, tapering out to a cat eye flick. We would recommend using 7-8mm on the inner eye graduating the lash lengths 9,10,11 midway, then using 12,13 on the outer eye area & then dropping back down to 12mm to finish.


Squirrel Eye – This is quite similar to the Cat/Fox eye.

Starting with shorter lengths as the Cat/Fox eye, graduating to medium lash lengths mid-way, then using longer lash lengths 3/4 way along the lash line reducing the lash lengths back to medium lash lengths. As per the diagram above. We would recommend using 8,9,10,11,12,13,11,12, and 11,10 lash lengths.


Doll/Cute Eye – This is a lovely lash style to use as it graduates quite quickly onto medium & longer length lash giving a wide-eyed very youthful pretty doll-like lash look. We would recommend using medium-length lashes on the inner eye graduating onto longer then back to medium then shorter lash lengths – 10,11,12 – 13,12,11 – 10-9mm lash lengths.


Choosing the correct lash style for your client…

This is essential & can be quite challenging when you are a newbie lash technician – It is ok to say NO & advise your client on what you would suggest/recommend as a lash professional, ask any lash technician & I’m sure they will tell you they have all made mistakes & been too frightened to stand up to their clients, resulting in a set of lashes that the client or lash tech has not been happy with! 

With influencers, bloggers & social media platforms sharing the most amazing images of the perfect lashes, it can be so hard to stand up for yourself as a lash technician & say NO to clients, as none of us like turning business away!

Remember to go with your gut feeling when you have your client’s consultation & patch test!

If you don’t gel or feel you can manage their expectations, maybe this client is not for you!

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